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Adirondack Style Architecture
Written November 23, 2011 by Tom Russell, Architect LEED AP • Filed Under Mountain Architecture
The Adirondack Style has had a strong influence on much of the Mountain Architecture we enjoy today. When I was growing up in the Adirondacks, I knew very little about the rich history of the area. Now, traveling back there as an architect with a lot more knowledge of the natural and built environment, I am able to really appreciate a lot of the things that I hardly noticed when I was younger. One of the things I enjoy the most is checking out the Adirondack style camps that have become iconic symbols of the region, especially the ones that are built along the shores of the numerous lakes. My favorite place to go to learn about Adirondack history is the Adirondack Museum in Blue Mountain Lake, New York.
 Adirondack Museum
Until the late 1800’s, most of the Adirondacks were a rugged wilderness that few dared to venture into. As transportation routes slowly became established later in the 19th century, wealthy city dwellers started taking extended vacations there to recreate and escape from unhealthy urban environments. Early Adirondack accommodations were primitive at best, and as the demand increased more civilized shelters started appearing. The remoteness of the Adirondacks necessitated the use of indigenous materials for building, and abundant supplies of timber and stone made them the obvious choice. Sawmills and sophisticated fasteners were rare, so whole or half logs in easy to handle sizes and creative joinery became a part of the building process out of necessity.
 Early Adirondack Cabin
As railroads started to penetrate the Adirondacks, many of the wealthiest industrialists of the time sought refuge in the clean air, numerous lakes and beautiful scenery of the area. They built grand lodges to house themselves and their guests, often as small campuses with separate outbuildings for sleeping or utility purposes. These so called “great camps” were built in a similar style using local materials and craftsman, and many of them are still standing and in service today.
 Camp Pine Knot, the first of the Adirondack "Great Camps"
William West Durant, son of railroad magnate Thomas Durant, is often credited with developing the Adirondack style, though some of the signature elements of the style had been used for some time in early Adirondack buildings. Here is an excellent short PBS video on Adirondack Great Camps.
The great camps exemplify the Adirondack style, which has influences from the Arts & Crafts movement, the Shingle style, and Swiss chalets. Rustic elegance is the hallmark of the style, achieved through artful use of native materials left as close to their natural state as possible. Common exterior elements include unpeeled cedar log siding and railings, square pane divided light windows, intricate twig work, and ornate gable decoration. The cedar log railing below was built by RP Ledger Construction of Lake Placid, NY.
 Adirondack Railing
 Adirondack Deck
Highlights of interiors include granite boulder fireplaces, birch bark wallpaper, fir bead board for wainscot and ceilings, and furniture crafted from small diameter unpeeled logs, bark and rough edged boards. Bedroom below by RP Ledger Construction.
 Adirondack Bedroom
 Adirondack Kitchen
Another common characteristic of the Adirondack style is buildings that harmonize with their surroundings. When the early great camps were constructed, large earth moving equipment was not available, and the rugged landscape forced the buildings to fit the land. The use of natural materials and earth tone colors helps to make true Adirondack style buildings appear to be part of the landscape, and the focus on recreation and outdoor living emphasize a connection to nature.
In classic Adirondack style, this grand lodge home (photo below, also by RP Ledger Construction) is unassumingly tucked back into the forest. Unpeeled Eastern White Cedar railings and rustic timbers grace the exterior of this Adirondack home.
 Adirondack Lodge Home
No Adirondack camp is complete without a covered deck, and screened “sleeping porches” are common for warm weather use.
 Adirondack Sleeping Porch
The Adirondack style is not strictly an east coast vernacular. Adirondack style homes and furniture can be found in many of the mountainous areas of the country. The Adirondack chair has become a fixture on cabin porches and docks all across America. Perhaps the most visible adaption of Adirondack style can be seen in some of the National Park lodges in the western United States. The Old Faithful Inn, Glacier Park Lodge, and The Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite are among those with influences from the Adirondack style.
 Old Faithful Inn Exterior Detail
So called “Parkitecture” is a regional adaptation of the basic concept of using indigenous materials to create grand buildings that offer rustic luxury and promote engagement with the outdoors.
At Hendricks Architecture, we specialize in designing western mountain style lodge homes that take some inspiration from the Adirondack style. Having grown up in the area and worked on some old Adirondack camps when I was a young carpenter, I have a deep appreciation for the style. I am fond enough of it that I have designed an Adirondack style cabin that I plan to build on my property here in Sandpoint, Idaho. Anyone who has been to both the Adirondacks and North Idaho will know how similar the two places are; I think an Adirondack style lodge or cabin would be a great fit for the heavily forested lake country of the Idaho Panhandle. If you have an interest in an Adirondack style home or any other Arts and Crafts inspired mountain home style, we would love to talk to you about your plans.
Tom Russell
Architect, LEED AP
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Choosing Windows for Your Home
Written October 8, 2011 by Tom Russell, Architect LEED AP • Filed Under Energy Efficiency, Mountain Architecture
From an Architect’s perspective, windows are one of the most important elements that goes into a typical home, and the choice of which windows to use should not be taken lightly. Windows perform many important functions in residential buildings – they are part of the exterior envelope that keeps inhabitants separated from the elements, they provide a visual connection with the outside world, they let in critical natural light, and they can be used to help ventilate or passively heat and cool a space. We also expect them to look good, function flawlessly, last forever, and coordinate with the exterior and interior materials.
 Lakefront Home with Aluminum Clad Wood Windows
Modern building codes have minimum energy efficiency standards for windows, and these have been getting more stringent in recent versions of the code. Quality windows are a critical component in an energy efficient home, since most of the heat loss (and gain) in a well insulated building occurs through windows and doors. However, good windows are expensive, and cost is usually a major factor in the deciding which type of window to use. I always advocate for using the best quality windows that the budget will allow, even if it means compromising elsewhere.
 Mountain Home with Aluminum Clad Wood Windows
The residential window business is highly competitive and there are constant innovations that Architects and builders try hard to stay current on. Here are my observations and opinions on some of the window options out there.
Vinyl windows have become something of an industry standard in lower to mid level homes, and are even sometimes used in more upscale custom homes. Because they are the most affordable of the pre-manufactured window options and are relatively easy to make in custom sizes, vinyl windows have become extremely popular, especially for replacement windows. On the plus side, all but the cheapest vinyl windows are reasonably energy efficient and meet minimum code requirements. They also won’t rot or require any maintenance.
In my opinion, vinyl windows have many disadvantages – the frames sag over time, the profiles are usually clunky and unattractive, the grids look fake, and vinyl as a material is environmentally harmful and contributes to bad indoor air quality. Sun deteriorates vinyl over time, leading to it becoming weak and brittle. Until recently, vinyl windows were available in any color you wanted, as long as you wanted white or tan. Now Jeld-Wen has vinyl windows available in 8 standard colors with a custom option to have them painted any color. I don’t advocate using vinyl windows except when the budget is super tight or in a replacement situation where custom sizing better windows would be cost prohibitive.
 Home with Vinyl Clad Wood Windows
Vinyl clad wood windows are better than pure vinyl windows because the frame is made of wood with a protective vinyl cover on the exterior portion of the window. While they still look like vinyl windows on the outside, the interior is natural wood and it is hard to tell them from true wood windows. They combine the low maintenance of vinyl with the beauty and strength of wood. As you might expect, vinyl clad wood windows are priced in the mid range and are a good choice when the budget allows a quality upgrade from pure vinyl. Some companies offer Fiberglass Cladding in lieu of vinyl. Fiberglass is a more durable option that is available in more colors than vinyl.
 Waterfront Home with Aluminum Clad Wood Windows
Aluminum clad wood windows are the standard of quality in modern residential construction. They take the time tested all wood window that has been used in quality homes for the last 100 plus years and eliminate the largest disadvantage – exposed wood on the exterior that deteriorates quickly and requires frequent maintenance. Modern clad wood windows are built to high standards of energy efficiency and their performance can be further upgraded by opting for different glazing choices. The exterior cladding is formed to different profiles, depending on the manufacturer and the product line you choose. Cladding color choices are extensive, and the best windows have 20 – 30 year warranties on the paint used for the cladding, which makes them maintenance free and very long lasting. In my mind, clad wood windows are the obvious choice when superior energy performance, longevity, and good looks are important considerations.
 An Aluminum Clad Wood Window Section
All wood windows perform similarly to clad wood windows, with the exception that the exterior is exposed wood rather than clad with aluminum. While the energy performance of these units will be the same, they are more susceptible to weathering and require frequent painting or staining. They look great, especially on rustic and some traditional style homes, but I would only recommend using them when the aesthetic of the home requires. If all wood windows are used, it is a good idea to provide large overhangs or other means to protect them from sun and precipitation. Humid climates may necessitate using more durable (and costly) wood species, such as Honduran Mahogany, Verante or Teak.
 Wood Windows on a Mountain Home
Hurd, a Wisconsin manufacturer of quality windows, is currently marketing a hybrid window called the H3. It combines aluminum cladding, a vinyl core frame, and wood interior. Installed, it looks just like a clad wood window because the vinyl is used in places where it doesn’t show. Advantages of using vinyl are increased stability, better rot resistance, and lower cost. I have yet to see these windows installed on a project, but it is an interesting idea and may be a good option for projects that require quality windows at a mid level price point.
Windows are an important architectural and functional element of any home. If you are building a new home, an addition, or replacing old windows, buy the best you can afford and pay careful attention to installation details. It may be worth checking for federal, state, or utility company incentives for energy efficient upgrades.
Tom Russell, Project Architect, LEED AP
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho. Subscribe to Hendricks Architecture’s Blog
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Sandpoint Mountain Home on the Cover of Timber Home Living
Written July 16, 2011 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Mountain Architecture, Sandpoint
A home Hendricks Architecture designed at The Idaho Club in Sandpoint, Idaho is the cover story in the August 2011 issue of Timber Home Living Magazine. More information and photos on this home can be seen on Mountain Style Home in Sandpoint, a previous post of ours. The cover shot and accompanying photos were taken by Karl Neumann Photography. The contractor was Pucci Construction.
 Sandpoint Mountain Home on the Cover of Timber Home Living
John Hendricks, AIA Architect
Hendricks Architecture is a mountain architecture firm located in Sandpoint, Idaho. Subscribe to Hendricks Architecture’s Blog. Cover photo used with permission.
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Snow Insulation and the Igloo
Written February 24, 2011 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Energy Efficiency, Mountain Architecture
If you were going to insulate a home, would snow be a consideration?
Believe it or not, snow is a great insulator. Snow has a low density with pockets of air between the flakes, which helps prevent heat from passing through. A recent Architect Magazine illustrated that while the average winter temperature north of the Arctic Circle is -30.5 degrees F (-1 C), the average interior temperature of an inhabited igloo is +60.5 F (+16 C).
 1909 Frederick Cook Expedition igloo near North Pole (Library of Congress photo)
So how does this all relate to a mountain home? A negative perception by many people is to keep snow off your roof. It can leak and cause structural failures. Looking at it in a positive light, the negatives can easily be corrected in design, and keeping snow on a roof adds an additional insulation layer to your home. The snow helps keep warm air from escaping. In this aspect, flat roofs are actually more energy efficient that sloped roofs, though not as popular. The flat roof holds more snow, and thus, extra snow insulation. See our article Managing Snow On Roofs for more information.
 Snow On Mountain Cabin Roof
Please note that while snow adds insulation value, no building department will allow the use of a roof that is insulated solely by snow. Otherwise, if it’s a low snow year, you’re out of luck.
John Hendricks, AIA Architect, NCARB
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho. Subscribe to Hendricks Architecture’s Blog
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Managing Snow On Roofs
Written November 8, 2010 by Tom Russell, Architect LEED AP • Filed Under Mountain Architecture
Snow is a reality in just about all mountain environments. For those who choose to live in snow country it can be either a blessing or a curse, depending on your perspective and the situation you are currently facing. If you are standing at the top of Schweitzer Mountain Ski Resort the morning after a big snow storm, you will likely be counting your blessings. If you are standing in your driveway trying to move all that snow so you can get to the top of Schweitzer Mountain, you may be saying something else.
Snow and the mountain environment are tough on everything, and your home is no exception. A mountain home should to be able to withstand all that nature throws at it and provide its inhabitants with a warm, dry sanctuary from the elements. When we design homes in the mountains, we pay careful attention to all the details of the building envelope to insure that the finished product will perform well. The most important component in a building’s envelope is the roof. A good roof can be the difference between a home that ages gracefully and one that deteriorates quickly and requires frequent maintenance.

It is not uncommon in our area to have several feet of snow on a roof in the winter. Besides being able to support the weight of all that snow, a roof needs to be designed to avoid ice dams, sliding snow, excessive icicle formation, and drainage onto high traffic areas. The easiest and most common sense approach is to keep the roof as simple as possible, avoiding excessive valleys, crickets, dormers, and mechanical roof penetrations. This is easier said than done, and in general the more complex the floor plan is the more complex the roof will be. Simple roofs also may tend to look “plain”. On mountain style homes it is always a fun design challenge to create a roof that looks good, works with the desired floor plan, and handles snow well.
 A mountain home designed by Hendricks Architecture in a moderate snow year.
Some general guidelines that we try to adhere to:
- Avoid areas that will trap snow and lead to excessive accumulation, especially on the North side of the roof.
- The roof should be designed with overhangs large enough to provide protection for the walls and windows below.
- Roof slopes lower than 4/12 tend to perform well with metal roofs, which are less prone to leakage and ice dam formation. At these slopes, snow creeps rather than slides and is easy to manage.
- On roof slopes between 4/12 and 6/12, rough textured roofing materials work best. They hold the snow in place and keep it from accumulating and then sliding off in large slabs that can be dangerous. People have been killed by snow avalanches sliding off roofs during big snow winters.
 Roof avalanche
- Slopes greater than 6/12 will tend to shed snow regardless of the texture of the material on them, so roof slopes should be configured to avoid shedding anywhere people might be walking or exiting. The higher the roof pitch, the more often the snow slides off. So in general, the shallower pitch can be more dangerous with bigger slides.
- If the design necessitates a roof slope that drains onto a traffic area, snow retention devices should be provided to hold the snow in place.
- Proper roof ventilation and high R-value roof insulation is essential to minimizing ice dam formation. In some cases, roof snow melt systems or heat tape can be used to combat ice accumulation on eaves and in valleys.
- Shed dormers are easier to waterproof and shed snow better than gable dormers. Shed dormers should be considered if the design and style of the home allow.
- In areas prone to excessive snow accumulation (like Schweitzer and similar alpine environments), gutters should be avoided if possible. Sliding snow tends to tear them off, require frequent replacement or repair. In general, on mountain homes we recommend using gutters only where they are necessary to avoid undesirable drainage situations.
 Snow damaged gutter
- Try to combine roof penetrations for plumbing and HVAC vents. Routing them to a central chimney helps limit cluttering the roof with vents that sliding snow can damage. Use direct vent mechanical appliances that vent through the wall when possible.
Common sense would suggest that snow accumulation on a roof is a bad thing. In fact, having a reasonable depth layer of snow on a roof is a good thing as long as the roof is designed to handle the weight. It is a sign that the roof is adequately insulated and vented. It also provides an additional level of insulation and protects the roofing material from sun exposure, which is your roof’s worst enemy. A house that has a bare roof when all the others in the area are covered in snow or has excessive ice formation is a sure sign of poor insulation and inadequate venting.
In extreme big snow winters, excessive snow accumulation is unavoidable. Unless your home is purposely designed for much more than the typically required snow load, this is a problem that the best design can’t always resolve. As far as we know, there is only one solution – get out the shovel, call your friends (or winter maintenance company), and get to work!
 The last resort - shoveling the roof.
Selle Valley Construction, a Sandpoint contractor, has some great winter weatherization tips.
If you are looking to build a new home or remodel your existing one, we can help you design a beautiful home that will provide shelter from the mountain weather and provide a sanctuary for your family for generations to come.
Tom Russell, LEED AP, and John Hendricks, AIA Architect
Hendricks Architecture specializes in the design of mountain style homes and cabins, often with a rugged, rustic appearance including the use of stone and timbers. Most of the homes we’ve completed are in mountain resort areas throughout the West. Visit our portfolio for examples of some of our recently completed custom projects.
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Mountain Living’s Top Mountain Architects
Written September 10, 2010 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Architecture, Mountain Architecture, Sandpoint
Hendricks Architecture has recently been named to Mountain Living Magazine’s Top Mountain Architects and Interior Designers. Mountain Living is the premier magazine on mountain architecture.
This has been a busy summer in publications for us, with also having a private residence at The Idaho Club featured in Sandpoint Magazine (pages 84-88), along with John as a featured architect in Green Building & Design (page 25). We will also have a residence featured in Cabin Life Magazine in December.
We feel truly blessed and honored to be a part of these publications.
John Hendricks, AIA Architect
 Private mountain style residence at The Idaho Club featured in Sandpoint Magazine.
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho. For other photos, please see previous mountain architecture projects.
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Stone Cladding Options
Written May 9, 2010 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Mountain Architecture
Stone has been used throughout history on buildings of many styles as a cladding material. Until relatively recent times it was used for structural applications in foundations and wall construction. In modern construction, stone is used primarily as a cladding option to cover less attractive structural substrates. Stacked stone isn’t a good structural material. It can support a lot of weight, but because it is difficult to reinforce with steel, it is notoriously bad at surviving earthquake events, and thus doesn’t meet the strict requirements that architects must meet in modern building codes.
 Stone accents on a Grand Canyon ranger station help give the building a bold appearance.
Architects use stone on building exteriors to create a sense of permanence and solidity. Drawing from the historical precedent of stacked stone building foundations, stone veneer is often used around the base of a building to visually anchor it to the land. Stone is also commonly used on fireplaces, chimneys, column bases, planters, landscape elements and even as an interior wall finish.
Stone cladding (also called stone veneer) is available in many forms. Many historic and modern style buildings use cut stone slabs as a wall finish material. Similar to the slabs used for making counter-tops, this type of stone cladding is used to create a refined look with clean, straight lines. In the nature themed mountain style homes we design at Hendricks Architecture, stone veneer is used in a more rustic application. Stacked stone masonry fireplaces, foundations, column bases, and landscape features add an organic aesthetic and help buildings blend in with their surroundings.
 Stacked stone foundation
The types of stacked stone masonry commonly used on mountain homes are available in three basic forms, all of which have advantages and disadvantages. Here is an overview of the three options:
Thick stone veneer is the traditional and time tested stacked stone application, and uses real stones that are cut or broken to be 4″ – 6″ thick. Applied over concrete, masonry, or wood substrates, thick stone veneer is the most realistic looking, but is also the most expensive. Because it is heavy, thick stone is costly to transport, handle, install and support. Substantial structure is required to support stone installations and keep them from moving or failing over time, and this accounts for a good portion of the cost. Thick stone masonry allows individual stones to be offset horizontally, creating a more natural look that adds rustic appeal. It is also the best material to use if a true dry stack look is desired.
 Thick stone veneer on a bus stop.
Thin stone veneer also utilizes real stone, but minimizes the weight by cutting the individual stones to a thickness of ¾” to 1 ½”. A quality installation of thin stone veneer will resemble a thick stone installation (it’s the same basic material), but this type of stone doesn’t allow for the horizontal relief that can be achieved with thick stone, and thus shadows and perceived textures are not the same. Thin stone looks more refined and less organic. This type of stone has the highest material cost, but ends up being approximately 15% less expensive installed cost than thick veneer because of savings in structural costs, transportation, handling and installation labor.
 Thin stone veneer piers on a home under construction.
Thin stone comes with specially made pieces that are “L” shaped to make corners appear as if full thickness veneer was used. We recommend using thin stone veneer on less visible applications and in locations where the cost to create the structure required for thick veneer is significant. Rooftop chimneys are a good place to use thin veneer, whereas a masonry fireplace that is right at eye level and already has the structure to support stone might be a better place for thicker stone. Another option is to mix in 30% full stone with 70% thin stone to achieve a more natural, textured application.
 Full stone mixed in with thin stone to achieve more texture.
Another texture option is to place other masonry materials, such as bricks, into the mix. This is an “Old World” application and is seen on many European structures, including in Tuscany, where stone and other materials were recycled from older buildings (even Roman ruins) or whatever was available. Brick has also been mixed with stone, in a more refined way, in some homes of the Arts and Crafts movement.
Cultured stone is a manufactured product made of formed lightweight concrete that is stained or colored to look like stone. Depending on the brand, cultured stone can be in the form of individual stones or panels that are shaped to key together. Cultured stone is the lightest weight option, owing to the highly porous material from which it is made. Structural requirements to support it are minimal, but because it is so porous cultured stone absorbs and wicks water. It needs to be installed properly and placed over suitable substrates or it can lead to moisture problems and premature failure.
Cultured stone is the least expensive option, but is also the least convincing. Some brands look better than others, but no cultured stone I have seen looks or feels like real stone. Additionally, after several years cultured stone will begin to fade when exposed to sunlight. Almost all manufacturers of cultured stone recommend that it not be installed below grade, and this can lead to installations that are awkward and unconvincing. Many applications of cultured stone leave the material hanging above the ground (and 6″ to 8″ above soil), giving the building the appearance of floating.
 One of the problems with cultured stone - a cultured stone wall "floating" above a patio.
When any type of stone is used on foundations, window bays, or any application where the support structure is not an obvious part of the design (such as an arch or beam), it should engage with the ground. To be a valid architectural element, stone should appear to support the building instead of the building supporting the stone.
Natural stone is a beautiful material that can enhance the look and durability of most styles of architecture. As architects of mountain homes, we believe stone, and native stone in particular, is an important material to help a building harmonize with the landscape and appear to “grow from the land”.
Tom Russell, LEED AP and John Hendricks, AIA Architect
Hendricks Architecture specializes in the design of mountain style homes and cabins, often with a rugged, rustic appearance including the use of stone and timbers. Most of the homes we’ve completed are in mountain resort areas throughout the West. Visit our portfolio for examples of some of our recently completed custom projects. If you are interested in a mountain home, or you have any other inquiries, please contact us.
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Mountain Chapel
Written February 10, 2010 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Mountain Architecture, Storybook Style, Whimsical
We are designing a rustic mountain chapel for a family in conjunction with the design of their custom mountain home. Tucked in a quiet corner of their property in the woods, it will be a place for them to escape the usual distractions and pray quietly, either alone or in a small group.
 Rustic Mountain Chapel with Trusses
Several options were presented, with a few of them shown here. Stone and wood are the main materials on the exterior and interior, along with rustic arched timber trusses, beams and/or rafter accents. A central wood window with cross shaped mullions overlooks a spectacular rock outcropping. Some of the options include window bench seats and clerestory windows.
 Small Hobbit Chapel
 Small Mountain Chapel with Window Seat
John Hendricks, Architect AIA
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects located in Sandpoint, Idaho.
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The Trend Towards Smaller Homes
Written January 12, 2010 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Energy Efficiency, Mountain Architecture
As an architect specializing in residential design, I am finding more and more people are trending towards smaller homes. The distressed economy has been leading this evolution, but there are other factors as well, including space efficiency, energy efficiency, sustainability, a return to quality, and long term value.
Many reduced financial portfolios simply cannot currently pay for large lodge homes. One of the most popular questions I received before we revamped our website was, “Do you design anything less expensive?” Cozy cabins and small cottages are now in much more demand.
 Mountain Cabin
These smaller homes are demanding more efficient use of space, both visually and functionally. Visually, a home can take advantage of the outdoors by strategically placing windows, doors, materials and landscaping in areas that can seamlessly bring the outside in, and the inside out. Thoughtful design will make the interior rooms look bigger. The outdoor “rooms” are also generally cheaper than indoor rooms.
In regards to function, as an example, I’m often asked to design bigger guest rooms. Some questions I’ll ask are; how long will the guest be staying? What will they be doing in there besides sleeping? Can they do without a TV and desk? Can queen sized beds be used instead of kings?
These questions may help turn a 16×16 room into a more cozy 10×10 room, thus saving 156 square feet per guest room. Two smaller guest rooms saving 312 square feet, at say $300 per square foot, equals $93,600. Would the costs be better placed elsewhere in rooms used more often? The same could be said for having the guests share a bathroom. Everybody of course has different opinions on this, but the point is architects need to ask these questions to help the home owners save on costs.
On some projects I have considered marine architecture, a great example of space efficiency. Anybody who has been on a well designed yacht can see efficiencies of space at work. Every cubic foot of these boats is put to good use, whether it’s storage under the seats or cubbyholes above the beds. Some of the marine concepts can be used in homes as well.
 Small Mountain Home
Smaller homes are also more energy efficient and sustainable. To put it simply, small homes save on energy costs by lowering your heating and cooling bills. For more information on this please see our blog post on Energy Efficiency. Smaller homes can also save materials, trees and transportation costs, among others.
Quality, not quantity, seems to be the choice of the new generation, if given a choice between the two. A smaller home can save more room in the budget for thoughtful architecturally designed details, including coffered ceilings, custom built-ins, wood walls and trim, high end lighting fixtures and appliances, and quality curved windows. One of the most rewarding projects I’ve designed was a small family chapel on a family’s property. The exterior matched the rustic mountain style home, while the interior includes exposed beams, wood walls and ceilings, and custom curved windows. Powder rooms are another example of improving the quality of small spaces at a low cost.
Quality homes also add value over some of the bigger homes. Resale values are generally increased with better quality, energy efficiencies, etc. For more information on value, please see our blog post on Good Architecture Adds Value to Your Home.
With today’s lower construction prices, more people today can afford custom designed homes to suit their own tastes. If homeowners with smaller budgets can compromise on quantity of space, they can enjoy a higher quality home that will last for generations, instead of a spec home that may become quickly outdated.
John Hendricks, Architect AIA
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects located in Sandpoint, Idaho.
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Winter Construction in the Mountains
Written October 28, 2009 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Mountain Architecture
One of the primary challenges of winter construction in the mountains is timing and scheduling. If you are considering building a home in the mountains, or anywhere else in snow country, planning the start of your project to avoid outside work in the winter will save you money and construction time. That’s easy to say, but it is not uncommon for projects planned for spring starts to be delayed until late in the year because of such things as building department delays or funding challenges.
While it is not the ideal situation, building construction can still be done outside in the winter, even in areas with freezing temperatures and lots of snow. The best scenario for construction work to continue through the winter months is to have the roof on the building, the windows in, insulation done and enough interior work to keep crews busy through the coldest months. For those not lucky enough to be in this situation, it is still possible to keep the project moving during the winter, but expect progress to be noticeably slower and costs to be higher.
 A mountain home ready for some winter interior construction.
Timing construction projects to avoid working in (and sometimes on) the ground during winter is one of the most important scheduling issues. Foundation work is often not feasible in winter because of frozen ground, high groundwater levels, frost heaving, and the danger of concrete freezing before it is adequately cured. If you can’t get started early enough in the fall to get the foundation in and at least partially backfilled, it is advisable to wait until spring before breaking ground.
 A building with a foundation completed before winter arrived.
Here are some things to consider that may help avoid having to do outside construction in the winter:
- Start design in the summer or early fall the year before you want to start building. Have a good idea of what you want before getting started, and submit for a building permit during the winter when the building department workload is light so you can have a permit in hand when the snow melts. Spring and early summer is the building department’s peak season, and often leads to sizable delays. Avoid the bottleneck and start early.
- If your project does get a late start, it may be more cost effective to get the foundation and floor framing done, and then seal and tarp everything for the winter. This will give you a good start in the spring, and the cost of construction loan interest early in the project may be less than the added cost of working through the winter.
- It may be less expensive to have more workers or pay overtime during the summer and fall to get the project enclosed than to be paying the extra costs for winter construction.
 A home being built through the winter.
If it works out that your project will need to have framing or exterior envelope work done in the winter, it’s not the end of the world. Building professionals in snow country do it all the time, and some even claim to enjoy it. A few things to keep in mind if your project is being built in the winter:
- There will almost certainly be some days lost to weather. Bad weather is inevitable in the winter, and working outside is sometimes just not possible.
- Snow removal is an essential, and will most certainly cost you extra. Review your contract carefully and discuss it with your contractor so everyone is clear on responsibilities and expectations.
- Consider having the wall framing prefabricated. This is becoming more common and is a good alternative to framing outside in the winter.
- Workers and their tools are not as efficient when it’s cold, especially below freezing.
- Some materials require special storage and handling, or don’t work at all when it’s cold. Concrete products, paint, stucco, drywall mud and glues don’t like low temperatures. Non-chloride chemical accelerators may be used to increase the rate of concrete strength gain, and insulated blankets and heaters can protect the concrete from freezing after it’s first poured.
- Masonry work requires tenting and heat if temperatures will be below freezing during or for a period after installation.
- Temporary heat will need to be provided for workers and to keep some materials warm
- Special care needs to be taken to store materials where they will stay dry and not be damaged or lost under snow.
- Installing materials that are wet or frozen can lead to shrinkage & moisture problems in the future.
- Roofing is difficult in the winter. If it looks like getting the finish roof on isn’t possible before the snow flies, it may make sense to dry in with a durable underlayment or ice and water shield that will last through the winter and keep things dry.
- If siding will be done in the winter, it is a good idea to have it prefinished so it is protected both on the ground and after it is installed.
 A winter masonry tent.
One thing I have learned from many years of being in the architecture and home building business, including several winters building homes in the mountains, is that things might take longer than we think they will. If you are planning to build a home in snow country, start the process early and plan ahead to avoid starting construction late in the summer or fall. If things don’t go as planned and it is necessary for your project to continue through the winter, have realistic expectations and make sure to communicate with the contractor about what work is occurring, how it will be accomplished, and if it makes sense to do it in the winter. Most builders want to work through the winter, and tend to be stoic about the challenges it presents. There are definitely advantages to keeping the momentum of a project going, and often the best strategy is to keep working on aspects of the project that can be done efficiently in winter, and save the rest for spring.
Tom Russell, LEED AP and John Hendricks, Architect AIA, NCARB
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho.
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