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New Energy Code Requirements for Insulation
Written May 23, 2011 by Tom Russell, Architect LEED AP • Filed Under Energy Efficiency, Green
As of January 1, 2011, many states, including Idaho, adopted new energy code requirements with the 2009 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC). The new code has stricter requirements for the energy efficiency of the building envelope (a technical term for the part of a building that keeps the interior warm, dry, and comfortable). The new code requires a roughly 8-10% upgrade in building thermal efficiency from the previous code.
The biggest changes affect insulation values in ceilings, below grade walls, and to a lesser extent, above grade exterior walls. The insulation requirements vary within 8 different climate zones. North Idaho and much of the Intermountain West are in climate zone 6, which has only slightly lower insulation requirements than zones 7 & 8. Zones 7 & 8 encompass the very coldest parts of the country.
Here’s a quick overview of the new requirements:
- Ceiling insulation values have been increased from R-38 to R-49. (The R-value is a measure of thermal efficiency – the higher the number the more efficient the insulation). This is significant and potentially costly to homeowners, especially if they want vaulted ceilings. Typical roof framing members are not deep enough to accommodate enough conventional fiberglass insulation to achieve this high R-value. There are options that can be employed to meet this requirement and still have vaulted ceilings.
- Use deeper rafters. This is potentially expensive, an inefficient use of resources, and generally not recommended unless structural requirements dictate it.
- Use urethane spray foam insulation, which has a much higher R-value per inch. This product is more expensive than fiberglass insulation, but is an excellent air seal and eliminates the need for venting, which is sometimes difficult on complex roofs.
 Urethane spray foam insulation
- Use fiberglass insulation in the rafter space, and then a continuous rigid board insulation on either the ceiling below the rafters or on the roof above the sheathing. This reduces thermal bridging, which is a major source of heat loss in stick frame construction. Depending on the application, it may be better to put board insulation on the interior; putting it on the roof is physically easier but makes attaching some types of roofing problematic.
 Rigid Board Insulation
The code does allow for some R-value reductions if certain details are used, and there is an allowance for a maximum of 500 S.F. of vaulted ceilings with R-38 insulation value, subject to some restrictions.
- Basement wall insulation values have been increased from R-13 to R-19. These numbers are for insulation in wall cavities, if continuous board or spray foam insulation is used R- 15 is required. This accounts for the reduction in heat loss through thermal bridging, as mentioned above. One implication of this is that basement living space will potentially be reduced because walls need to be thicker to accommodate more insulation. Use of an ICF foundation system is an effective way to achieve this R-value without losing interior space.
 ICF Foundation
- Exterior wall insulation value has been increased from R-19 to R-20. This is significant because conventional fiberglass batt insulation is not able to achieve R-20 in a 2 x 6 wall. As an alternative, the code allows for a cavity insulation value of R-13 if a continuous board or foam insulation of minimum R-5 is used as a supplement. This is, again, an acknowledgement of the value of reducing thermal bridging. Urethane spray foam insulation can easily achieve R-20 in 2 x 6 stud cavities.
The new IECC has upped the ante for reducing building energy consumption, and future versions of the code promise further improvements. I have always been an advocate for maximizing the thermal performance of any new building, and hyper-insulating is a very effective means of achieving that goal. Money spent up front in insulation will be rewarded through reduced energy costs, smaller mechanical systems, and enhanced comfort levels for building occupants.
Tom Russell, LEED AP, Project Architect
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho. Subscribe to Hendricks Architecture’s Blog
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Sandpoint’s Lost in the 50′s Parade
Written May 20, 2011 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Sandpoint
Sandpoint, Idaho has a great tradition during a weekend every May called Lost in the 50′s. A regional staple since 1986, it kicks off Friday night with the Lost in the 50′s Parade. Showcase vehicles come from all over the western USA and Canada. Although it may not be for everybody, it’s generally a lot of fun. Kids enjoy it for the glitter and noise, while the adults get taken back to earlier days – and probably enjoy the nostalgia of the noisy cars as well! Here are some photos from recent years. These are taken on Church Street where they first enter town. There are also special guests who come to town for the parade, dances, and car show. One of the guests last year was Bowzer from Sha Na Na.

- Chevy Caprice
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 The Flame Car is a big hit.
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- More than just 50′s cars
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 Police Car
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 The Flintstones Car
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 50's Suburban
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 Traffic jam from the past
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 School Bus
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 Into the Rainbow
John Hendricks, AIA, Architect
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Why Hire An Architect?
Written May 20, 2011 by Tom Russell, Architect LEED AP • Filed Under Architecture, Energy Efficiency
In today’s economy, just about everyone is closely watching every dollar they spend. Belt tightening has become a way of life, and many people are having to prioritize what is important to them when they make decisions about how their money is spent. For people who value quality, the choice to spend more on something that will last longer, perform better, and have a higher resale value isn’t as easy when the economy is bad and money is tight.
We have been finding lately that a lot of prospective clients are shopping around for design services, trying to get the most for their money. One point of confusion we see is when clients compare the price of hiring an architect to design their home against the cost of using an inexpensive drafting service. There are several important qualifications that distinguish architects, and clarifying them might help to explain why the services of an architect may cost you more than you would pay for someone to draw simple house plans. However, good quality architecture adds value to your home. If you are looking for someone to design a home or remodel for you, the following may help guide you in making a decision.
- Comparing architects to people who prepare basic house plans is like comparing apples and carrots. Architects have a high level of formal training, have served a lengthy apprenticeship, and have undergone rigorous testing. Architects are licensed to practice by the state, are required to adhere to a code of ethics, and are held to high standards of accountability. It is illegal for someone to call themselves an Architect if they don’t hold a current license. In contrast, there are no educational or training standards for someone who wants to draw house plans, and no assurance to you that they understand regulatory requirements, safety codes, or the construction process. There are certainly draftsmen and building designers who are well educated and very competent, but they have not been subjected to the rigorous vetting process that architects go through to achieve licensure.
- Architects are trained to design buildings that balance aesthetics, function, safety, quality, longevity, and cost. Architects are required to earn continuing education credits as a condition of their license, so they are kept up to date on evolving building codes, zoning requirements, building science, including energy efficiency, and the benefits and limitations of modern materials.
- Architects are required to stamp and sign anything of a technical nature that leaves their office. This is a certification that they are taking liability for the product, and that to the best of their knowledge it meets all applicable jurisdictional requirements. Several states and most upscale subdivisions require that building plans have an architect’s stamp. If design drawings are not stamped by a licensed professional, there is no legal assumption of accountability and no assurance to the homeowner that the drawings were prepared under the watchful eye of someone who is legally bound to stand behind them.
- Architects typically produce detailed drawings and specifications that allow builders to give accurate estimates, build with minimal change orders, and understand all aspects of the project before they start building. Cheap house plans very rarely contain all the necessary information required to properly price and construct the project. With poor plans to work from, contractors have to fill in the blanks, figure out how to make things work, and design the details themselves. This can lead to disappointing results and potentially unsafe conditions. Most contractors prefer a good set of detailed documents so they can provide you with the best product at the lowest cost.
- Architects bring creativity to a project. Homes that are the product of unskilled designers are easy to pick out and lack the aesthetic qualities of a properly designed home. On the other hand, homes designed by architects typically have well thought out details, appropriate scaling, and functional floor plans. Well conceived designs produce high levels of owner satisfaction and strong resale values.
- Professional accountability has real value. Anyone with a word processor can produce a “legal document”, but that doesn’t make them a lawyer. We all want the assurance of professional accreditation when we seek out medical care or take our kids to the dentist. For what it costs to build or remodel a home, and the potential for problems that can result from poor design, hiring an architect to guide the process seems like a wise investment.
It is pretty easy to find someone to prepare inexpensive plans for your new home or remodel. As with anything, you will get what you pay for. If the home you want to build is very simple or is a modification of stock plans from a book, a drafting service may be a good choice for your project. If you want a unique, quality custom home you will likely be better served by hiring an architect.
When you hire an Architect you are paying for their education, creativity, accountability, knowledge of construction technology, and assurance of quality. It makes good financial sense to enlist the services of a trained professional when you are preparing to make what is likely one of the biggest financial commitments of your life.
For more information on the value of hiring an Architect, see the American Institute of Architects website at AIA.org.
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Snow Insulation and the Igloo
Written February 24, 2011 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Energy Efficiency, Mountain Architecture
If you were going to insulate a home, would snow be a consideration?
Believe it or not, snow is a great insulator. Snow has a low density with pockets of air between the flakes, which helps prevent heat from passing through. A recent Architect Magazine illustrated that while the average winter temperature north of the Arctic Circle is -30.5 degrees F (-1 C), the average interior temperature of an inhabited igloo is +60.5 F (+16 C).
 1909 Frederick Cook Expedition igloo near North Pole (Library of Congress photo)
So how does this all relate to a mountain home? A negative perception by many people is to keep snow off your roof. It can leak and cause structural failures. Looking at it in a positive light, the negatives can easily be corrected in design, and keeping snow on a roof adds an additional insulation layer to your home. The snow helps keep warm air from escaping. In this aspect, flat roofs are actually more energy efficient that sloped roofs, though not as popular. The flat roof holds more snow, and thus, extra snow insulation. See our article Managing Snow On Roofs for more information.
 Snow On Mountain Cabin Roof
Please note that while snow adds insulation value, no building department will allow the use of a roof that is insulated solely by snow. Otherwise, if it’s a low snow year, you’re out of luck.
John Hendricks, AIA Architect, NCARB
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho. Subscribe to Hendricks Architecture’s Blog
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Deconstruction vs. Demolition
Written February 3, 2011 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Contractors, Green
Recently I read an article in the Seattle Times Home and Garden section about deconstruction versus demolition, both of which I’ve had experience with as an architect. “On average, more than 75 percent of a home can be reused and recycled”, said writer Stacy Downs.
When you hear the term “tear down”, most homeowners simply have the contractor tear down a home, take it to the dump, and start a new home with new materials. The art of deconstruction, where a contractor takes the time to disassemble the light fixtures, cabinetry, doors, door handles, plumbing, and other parts of the house, is becoming more and more in vogue.
Some of your plumbing and light fixtures can be reused on your new home. Your original concrete foundation, garage floor, basement, patio, driveway and brick chimney could be crushed and used for your new home’s foundation backfill, potentially saving you thousands of dollars.
In the case of the mountain style homes we design, recycled timbers are extremely valuable. Not only are these rustic timbers physically beautiful, but they are also sometimes bigger and longer than those commercially available, not to mention the strength of the old-growth wood.
I designed a new home a few years ago in Bellevue, Washington where the old home was deconstructed. It was the homeowner’s idea, and at first I had thought they would lose money in the deal. Deconstruction is much more labor intensive and the costs of deconstruction are initially higher. However, if you’re willing to wait until after taxes, you could actually earn money if you have it appraised for the value of the salvageable structure.
Not only could you get tax benefits, you could also get extra LEED points, as well as help ease the minds of the environmentally conscious. More than 30% of waste that goes into landfills consists of building materials. For more info, or to purchase recycled goods, look up your local Habitat for Humanity ReStore resale outlet. Proceeds help your local Habitat affiliates fund the construction of Habitat homes within your community.
Read Seattle Times Article.
John Hendricks, AIA Architect
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Negotiating with a Contractor
Written December 18, 2010 by Tom Russell, Architect LEED AP • Filed Under Contractors
Negotiating with a contractor often gives owners the best value for their money. Working with a proven and reliable contractor leads to less headaches, the quality is known up front, and the building team (including the owner, architect, general contractor and subcontractors), is on the same page. A negotiated fee can be a higher cost up front, but the end cost can be lower than in a competitive bid as there are typically less change orders and the project is built faster with smoother project administration. A successful negotiation is a win-win for both parties.
Building a new home or doing a major remodel involves a lot of decisions. One of the most difficult choices is selecting a contractor to do the work. Choosing the right contractor for the job is extremely important, and several things need to be considered before committing to signing a contract for one of the biggest investments many of us will ever make.
 A Home Under Construction with a Contractor Selected by Negotiation
Building a new home can take from a few months to years, and during this time you (and/or your architect) will be working closely with whoever is doing the construction. Reputation, references and examples of past work should be carefully researched for all potential contractors. Chemistry is an important aspect of a successful owner/contractor relationship as well, and should be considered during the selection process. It is a good idea to talk to past clients (and your architect) and learn about their experience working with the builder on a long term project.
The method you use to choose a contractor should be based at least in part on what your priorities are. Competitive bidding is one method that is used for selecting contractors, and is often a good choice if low cost is your top priority. It is a time honored way of selecting contractors, and works well in many situations. One downside to bidding is that the low bidder isn’t always the best choice, and choosing based solely on price often leads to disappointing results.
Some of our clients choose to select a contractor based on their qualifications and reputation, and then negotiate with them to determine a fair price for the project. When quality of work and service are the highest priorities, this can be a better method than competitive bidding. If you choose an honest contractor that has experience building the type of home you want and has established a reputation for delivering high quality work at a fair price, you will likely be getting the best value for your dollar. As architects, one of the services we offer is helping you choose a quality contractor that is a good fit for your project.
 Another Home under Construction with a Negotiated Fee
If possible, it is a good idea to have a contractor selected before the design has been completed. It is often helpful to have input from the contractor during the design process, and they can provide construction advice and periodic cost estimates that help to stay within a budget. Contractors typically aren’t getting paid for this, so it is only fair to be sure you are going to hire them before asking too much.
Arriving at a contract price is often a give and take process. Most contractors prefer to work on a cost plus percentage basis, which means that you will be reimbursing them for their cost for materials, labor, permitting fees, subcontractor fees, and any other cost directly related to the project. In addition to this, they charge a percentage on top of the direct costs which covers their overhead and profit (O&P). While the direct costs are usually not subject to negotiation, the overhead and profit percentage varies. Typical O&P percentages these days are 8% to 15%, with 15% being reserved for the very best builders. In some of the busier resort areas 20% is not uncommon, though they’d better be elite contractors with high quality and service.
In negotiations with the contractor, there is usually some latitude in what percentage they charge, and in what portion of the work should be subject to overhead and profit charges. Depending on how busy they are, and how the market is at the time, the contractor may be willing to negotiate on their overall O&P charges. Unless it is negotiated and contracted otherwise, most contractors will add the O&P to all portions of the work, since as a general contractor they are responsible for coordination of all the trades and for making sure the final product is correct.
It is a good idea to ask a contractor how they select their subcontractors. Most established contractors have a group of regular subcontractors they use, and sometimes this can lead to non competitive pricing by the subs, since they know they will get the job. A good contractor will keep his subs honest by getting bids from competing subs, or by knowing what things cost and refusing to pay escalated prices. Make sure your contractor is working in your best interest and getting the best value for your dollar.
Another cost item that you will want to know is what rates the contractor pays his help. Most contractors have employees that are paid hourly and billed at some multiplier of their wage to cover insurances, taxes, etc. If you are on a cost plus percentage contract, you will want to make sure the contractor is paying his workers a fair price for their experience level and compared to the prevailing wages in the area.
An Architect can offer you help in deciding which method of selecting a contractor will be a best fit for your project, its budget, and your goals. We keep up to date on what things cost and what the contractors are charging for their services. We can suggest quality contractors that will be appropriate for your project, and help you negotiate with them to arrive at a contract price that is fair to everyone.
Tom Russell, LEED AP and John Hendricks, AIA Architect
Hendricks Architecture; mountain architects located in Sandpoint, Idaho. Visit our portfolio for examples of some of our recently completed custom projects. Feel free to Subscribe to Hendricks Architecture’s Blog.
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Managing Snow On Roofs
Written November 8, 2010 by Tom Russell, Architect LEED AP • Filed Under Mountain Architecture
Snow is a reality in just about all mountain environments. For those who choose to live in snow country it can be either a blessing or a curse, depending on your perspective and the situation you are currently facing. If you are standing at the top of Schweitzer Mountain Ski Resort the morning after a big snow storm, you will likely be counting your blessings. If you are standing in your driveway trying to move all that snow so you can get to the top of Schweitzer Mountain, you may be saying something else.
Snow and the mountain environment are tough on everything, and your home is no exception. A mountain home should to be able to withstand all that nature throws at it and provide its inhabitants with a warm, dry sanctuary from the elements. When we design homes in the mountains, we pay careful attention to all the details of the building envelope to insure that the finished product will perform well. The most important component in a building’s envelope is the roof. A good roof can be the difference between a home that ages gracefully and one that deteriorates quickly and requires frequent maintenance.

It is not uncommon in our area to have several feet of snow on a roof in the winter. Besides being able to support the weight of all that snow, a roof needs to be designed to avoid ice dams, sliding snow, excessive icicle formation, and drainage onto high traffic areas. The easiest and most common sense approach is to keep the roof as simple as possible, avoiding excessive valleys, crickets, dormers, and mechanical roof penetrations. This is easier said than done, and in general the more complex the floor plan is the more complex the roof will be. Simple roofs also may tend to look “plain”. On mountain style homes it is always a fun design challenge to create a roof that looks good, works with the desired floor plan, and handles snow well.
 A mountain home designed by Hendricks Architecture in a moderate snow year.
Some general guidelines that we try to adhere to:
- Avoid areas that will trap snow and lead to excessive accumulation, especially on the North side of the roof.
- The roof should be designed with overhangs large enough to provide protection for the walls and windows below.
- Roof slopes lower than 4/12 tend to perform well with metal roofs, which are less prone to leakage and ice dam formation. At these slopes, snow creeps rather than slides and is easy to manage.
- On roof slopes between 4/12 and 6/12, rough textured roofing materials work best. They hold the snow in place and keep it from accumulating and then sliding off in large slabs that can be dangerous. People have been killed by snow avalanches sliding off roofs during big snow winters.
 Roof avalanche
- Slopes greater than 6/12 will tend to shed snow regardless of the texture of the material on them, so roof slopes should be configured to avoid shedding anywhere people might be walking or exiting. The higher the roof pitch, the more often the snow slides off. So in general, the shallower pitch can be more dangerous with bigger slides.
- If the design necessitates a roof slope that drains onto a traffic area, snow retention devices should be provided to hold the snow in place.
- Proper roof ventilation and high R-value roof insulation is essential to minimizing ice dam formation. In some cases, roof snow melt systems or heat tape can be used to combat ice accumulation on eaves and in valleys.
- Shed dormers are easier to waterproof and shed snow better than gable dormers. Shed dormers should be considered if the design and style of the home allow.
- In areas prone to excessive snow accumulation (like Schweitzer and similar alpine environments), gutters should be avoided if possible. Sliding snow tends to tear them off, require frequent replacement or repair. In general, on mountain homes we recommend using gutters only where they are necessary to avoid undesirable drainage situations.
 Snow damaged gutter
- Try to combine roof penetrations for plumbing and HVAC vents. Routing them to a central chimney helps limit cluttering the roof with vents that sliding snow can damage. Use direct vent mechanical appliances that vent through the wall when possible.
Common sense would suggest that snow accumulation on a roof is a bad thing. In fact, having a reasonable depth layer of snow on a roof is a good thing as long as the roof is designed to handle the weight. It is a sign that the roof is adequately insulated and vented. It also provides an additional level of insulation and protects the roofing material from sun exposure, which is your roof’s worst enemy. A house that has a bare roof when all the others in the area are covered in snow or has excessive ice formation is a sure sign of poor insulation and inadequate venting.
In extreme big snow winters, excessive snow accumulation is unavoidable. Unless your home is purposely designed for much more than the typically required snow load, this is a problem that the best design can’t always resolve. As far as we know, there is only one solution – get out the shovel, call your friends (or winter maintenance company), and get to work!
 The last resort - shoveling the roof.
Selle Valley Construction, a Sandpoint contractor, has some great winter weatherization tips.
If you are looking to build a new home or remodel your existing one, we can help you design a beautiful home that will provide shelter from the mountain weather and provide a sanctuary for your family for generations to come.
Tom Russell, LEED AP, and John Hendricks, AIA Architect
Hendricks Architecture specializes in the design of mountain style homes and cabins, often with a rugged, rustic appearance including the use of stone and timbers. Most of the homes we’ve completed are in mountain resort areas throughout the West. Visit our portfolio for examples of some of our recently completed custom projects.
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Good News On the Remodeling Front
Written October 27, 2010 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Architecture, Contractors
Architects and Contractors who specialize in residential remodels should note and take heart in the following.
The Joint Center For Housing Studies (JCFHS) of Harvard University forecasts remodeling activity to start increasing 3.1% in the 4th quarter, with a larger jump of 11.8% to follow in the 2nd quarter of 2011 as people start spending on home improvements. Among other factors, currently there are many homes that have foreclosed that are being picked up and having major remodels.
The JCFHS measures improvements with such items as additions and kitchen and bath remodels. Contractors are more optimistic as well with the low interest rates fueling spending on big-ticket upgrades. These forecasted improvements are a breath of fresh air after a 3 year decline.
As we wrote last September in our blog post “A Great Time to Remodel” there are many factors that would lend itself to remodeling at this time. Construction costs have dropped, those interested in selling are upgrading so their home is a standout among the others, tax incentives for energy efficiency are still available and more. Now is an ideal time to rethink and begin the remodel you have been postponing.
Annie Hendricks, contributing author. Annie received a B.A. In Economics and has worked as a trader and portfolio manager both in New York City and Seattle.
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho.
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Residential Heating Options
Written September 29, 2010 by Tom Russell, Architect LEED AP • Filed Under Energy Efficiency, Green
As architects, our clients are always asking for guidance on what type of heating or cooling system will be best for their home. The answer is not a simple one, and making a decision usually involves weighing a combination of personal preference, initial vs. life cycle costs, practical constraints, and climate considerations. There are a lot of residential heating options out there, and deciding which one is appropriate for your situation will not only impact your future utility costs, but also your level of comfort and satisfaction with your home.

Some of the practical considerations that weigh in on the decision are:
1. Climate
- If you live in a hot climate, cooling will be the primary consideration. Heating will be a secondary concern and may only be required very occasionally.
- In most areas of the country, both heating and cooling are required, depending on the season. Choosing a system that does both efficiently is important
- Some mountain environments don’t require cooling, or natural ventilation can be used to control the comfort level and mechanical air conditioning is not necessary.
2. Availability of energy sources
- Depending on location, electricity, natural gas, or other public utilities may be unavailable or prohibitively expensive.
- Renewable energy sources may be available and cost effective to utilize (solar in the Southwest, wind on the coast, geothermal near a large water body)
3. Relative cost of energy
- Electricity rates vary significantly
- Natural gas is typically a good value, but not always available
- Heating oil and Propane are usually delivered by truck to your site. They may or may not be less than electricity, but delivery can be subject to weather and seasonal accessibility challenges.
4. Initial costs vs. life cycle costs are always a consideration. In general, the systems that cost the most to operate are the least expensive to purchase and install. A system that uses very little or no energy may be expensive to buy, but might pay for itself in a reasonable time and end up saving money in the long term. Energy efficiencies of the different systems vary greatly.
5. Personal preferences vary
- Some people find moving air (especially cool air from air conditioning) to be uncomfortable.
- Individuals with allergies or respiratory ailments may be affected by forced air systems, which tend to re-circulate dust and other airborne contaminants.
- Some systems are better for zoned comfort, allowing inhabitants to vary temperatures in different areas of the home.
6. Space requirements may be an issue
- Duct systems may need dropped ceilings, soffits, and vertical chases
- A/C condenser units need to be outside and near mechanical room
- Hydronic systems work best in concrete floors or with a gypcrete overlay
- Baseboard heaters take up floor space and affect furniture layouts
Here is an overview of the commonly utilized systems and their pros & cons:
Electric resistance heat (baseboard, fan forced wall heaters, forced air)
Pros-
- Inexpensive upfront cost
- Easy to control heat levels in individual rooms
- Doesn’t require gas service
- Can be turned down during the day to save energy
Cons-
- Inefficient and expensive to operate
- Requires a separate system if A/C is desired
- Dry heat, requires humidification in most climates
- Most systems don’t utilize outside air, so a separate air exchange system is required
- No heat during power outages
Best use-
Not recommended unless gas service is unavailable and low cost is top priority.
Electric heat pump: (forced air system with heat exchanger, basically an A/C system run in reverse)
Pros-
- Doesn’t require gas service
- High efficiency
- Fast response – changes the ambient air temperature quickly
- Can be turned down during the day to save energy
- Moderate initial cost
- Can be retrofit to existing forced air system
- Works equally well for heat & A/C
Cons-
- Requires a condenser unit for each zone
- No heat or cooling during power outages
- Requires a duct system
- Re-circulates inside air
Best Use-
Where gas is unavailable or expensive. Heat pumps are best used where heat as well as A/C are necessary.
Gas fired forced air: (conventional furnace, with or without A/C)
Pros-
- Natural gas is usually inexpensive relative to other sources
- Can be high efficiency depending on equipment and design
- Moderate initial cost
- Fast response – changes the ambient air temperature quickly
- Can be turned down during the day to save energy
- A/C function is optional, and can be upgraded for minimal cost
- Popular system, so repairs are usually fairly easy and inexpensive
Cons –
- Gas availability varies
- If required, propane and heating oil are expensive and require a tank
- Requires a duct system
- Re-circulates inside air
- Gas leak and Carbon Monoxide hazards exist
- No heat or cooling during power outages
Best Use-
When natural gas is available and inexpensive, space required for ducts is not an issue, and initial cost is a primary consideration.

- Hydronic Radiant Floor Heating
Hydronic radiant heating: (heated liquid circulated through a network of concealed piping)
Pros –
- Heats objects rather than the air, so it is more comfortable heat.
- No re-circulated air, so indoor air quality is better
- No visible appliances or registers
- No sensation of moving air
- Floor, furniture and other objects are always warm / cool
- Boiler can be used for domestic water heating as well
- In rare cases, wood can be a fuel source rather than gas
Cons –
- Higher initial cost, moderate operating cost
- Slow response time – can take several days to change the temperature significantly
- Can’t be turned down for short time periods
- Cooling function doesn’t work as well as forced air – condensation can be an issue
- Retrofitting, modifying or expanding system can be difficult
- Needs concrete, gypcrete, or other thermal mass to work well
- Requires ventilation system to exchange air
Best Use-
When the highest level of thermal comfort is desired. Ideal system when heating is the primary function, cooling is secondary, and short term temperature fluctuation is not required.
 Installing Electric Floor Heating
Electric Radiant Heat: (Similar to hydronic, except for the following)
Pros –
- Less expensive initial cost
- Works best with thermal mass, but can be used without
- Can be used for small areas to supplement other systems
- Can be supplemented by solar photovoltaic panels
Cons –
- Expensive to operate
- No cooling function
Best Use-
When the comfort of radiant heat is desired, and gas is unavailable or expensive. Electric radiant is popular for small areas (bathrooms, kitchens, mudrooms) in homes that have non radiant systems.
Fireplace or wood stove
Pros-
- Add to the ambiance of a space
- Wood heat feels good, similar to radiant
- Fireplaces and stoves can be gas or wood burning
- Visual as well as functional benefit
- Provide heat during power outages
Cons-
- Fireplaces and stoves take up floor space
- Firewood requires storage space and can be messy
- Wood burning appliances require cleaning and maintenance
- Potential fire hazard
- Aren’t effective at circulating heat to large spaces
Best Use-
Fireplaces and woodstoves are great at supplying supplemental heat, but are not always feasible as a primary heat source. They are common in mountain homes, and can be a huge asset during prolonged power outages.

Some alternative energy sources can be used with heating and cooling systems to cut operating costs and environmental impacts. Some of the options that are available include:
Solar hot water – Solar Panels (usually roof mounted) can supply heated water to hydronic systems. Limited to cooler climates that have predominately clear skies.
Solar Photovoltaic – Solar cells in a variety of forms generate electricity that can be used to supply electric heat pumps, radiant or resistance heating systems.
Geothermal – Captures heat from the earth or large water bodies to supply hydronic systems or electric heat pumps. Despite what common sense would imply, heat can be extracted from earth or water that is at relatively low temperatures (32-55 deg Fahrenheit) and used to heat water or air to temperatures in the human comfort range.
Wind or moving water can turn generators that produce electricity. These systems are less common, but if the environment you live in has one of these energy sources, it can be utilized to heat and cool a home.
Upfront costs for alternative energy systems tends to be higher than for conventional public utility powered systems, but the energy savings can be substantial. It is worth considering the cost and environmental benefits that alternative energy systems can provide when making the decision of which type of climate control system to use in your home.
We have seen many of these systems installed in the mountain homes we design, and can help you make informed decisions on which system will be best for your project. We try to stay informed of the best technologies because we know how important the climate control system is to the proper function and overall enjoyment of a quality home.
Tom Russell, LEED AP and John Hendricks, AIA Architect
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho.
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Mountain Living’s Top Mountain Architects
Written September 10, 2010 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Architecture, Mountain Architecture, Sandpoint
Hendricks Architecture has recently been named to Mountain Living Magazine’s Top Mountain Architects and Interior Designers. Mountain Living is the premier magazine on mountain architecture.
This has been a busy summer in publications for us, with also having a private residence at The Idaho Club featured in Sandpoint Magazine (pages 84-88), along with John as a featured architect in Green Building & Design (page 25). We will also have a residence featured in Cabin Life Magazine in December.
We feel truly blessed and honored to be a part of these publications.
John Hendricks, AIA Architect
 Private mountain style residence at The Idaho Club featured in Sandpoint Magazine.
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho. For other photos, please see previous mountain architecture projects.
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Small Beach House in Mexico Breaking Ground
Written July 24, 2010 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Resort Areas, Waterfront
We’ve recently broken ground on a small beach house in Mexico. The home is organic in nature and designed for outdoor living, as well as situated to bring in the ocean breezes. Located above the Pacific coast between Puerto Vallarta and Acapulco, this hillside beach house is about 30 miles (48 km) SE of Zihuatanejo and the beach resort town of Ixtapa in the Mexican state of Guerrero.
 North View from the Beach House
Views are wide ranging out to the Pacific Ocean and up and down the coast. More information, including schematic plans and elevations of the home, can be found on our Mexico Beach House blog post.
The builder is Israel Magna Rodriquez of In-Progsa. Construction materials for a beach house are quite different from a mountain style home. The typical cedar siding over wood frame construction in the mountains would quickly rot in a high humid location. The best materials to use in high humidity climates such as coastal Mexico and Nicaragua are less perishable ones like concrete and native hardwoods. This home will be concrete with some hardwood trim and finish work.
John Hendricks, AIA Architect
Hendricks Architecture, Mountain and waterfront architects
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Choosing a Contractor by Competitive Bidding
Written July 7, 2010 by John Hendricks, Architect AIA • Filed Under Contractors
An important service that we perform as Architects is guiding our clients through the bidding or negotiation process. While it’s not the only way of selecting contractors, some of our clients prefer having a few qualified builders submit bids as a way of competing against each other to win contracts. Bidding can be a good method to select a contractor as long as the process is carried out in a way that is fair to everyone and with the understanding that price alone is not the only basis for selection. During your initial meetings with an Architect, it is important to determine what approach you want to use to select a contractor.
For bidding to work as a valid selection process, several factors need to be considered:
1. Bidding documents need to complete, detailed, and contain all the information required to develop an accurate price for the work to be performed. If the drawings and specifications do not contain enough information for the contractor to accurately price the work, they will almost certainly add to their bid to cover themselves from having to eat the costs of vague or poorly documented work items. Incomplete information in bid documents forces the contractor to make assumptions and leads to inaccurate bids, which almost always costs the homeowner more. A common mistake people make is to try cutting project costs by negotiating a reduced fee from the Architect in exchange for a less developed design package, or in choosing an inexperienced designer or draftsman to prepare the plans. It is a worthwhile investment to spend a little more up front for quality drawings and specifications, with the payoff realized in lower overall project costs and reduced headaches. Creating quality bid documents is one of the many ways an Architect can add value to your home.
 An architect's plans should be complete and detailed.
2. Bidders should all be in the same “league”. Before choosing potential contractors and asking them to bid a project, it is a good idea to research the candidates and talk to their references. They should have a proven track record of successful completion of projects that are similar in scope to the one they are being asked to bid. A construction company with a few employees that uses a pickup truck for an office is going to have a lot less overhead than a bigger company that has an office with support staff, provides benefits for their workers, and is well insured. Figure out the level of service you want from a contractor, and choose your bidders accordingly.
3. Limit the number of bidders to three at the most. Any more than that and you will be spending time and money responding to lots of questions. It takes a lot of time for a contractor and his subcontractors to develop an accurate bid, and it’s time they often don’t get paid for. If there are too many competitors, some may opt out or not spend enough time creating their bids, and the results will be skewed.
4. While contractors are preparing their bids, make sure any information that is communicated gets to all the bidding parties. It’s common to have a contractor call and ask for clarification, substitutions, or for information that is not in the documents. For bidding to be fair to all, written addenda or clarifications need to be sent to everyone and become a part of the bid documents. This can be time consuming, so clients should be willing to compensate Architects for the time it takes to make sure bidding is done properly. Well prepared drawings and specifications can help minimize time spent responding to inquiries during bidding.
 A reputable contractor will build a quality home at a fair price.
One important thing to consider before deciding if you want to award a contract by competitive bidding is what the priorities are for your project. Bidding can be a way to get a project built for the lowest cost, but sometimes construction quality can suffer in this type of relationship. If creating a high quality home is your top priority, it may be better to select a reputable contractor early in the process, foster a good relationship with them, and then develop a project budget that everyone can agree on before signing a contract. A good contractor knows who the best subcontractors and suppliers are, and unless one really stands above the rest, can secure the best quality at the best value by providing at least two bids from most of them.
Tom Russell, LEED AP and John Hendricks, Architect AIA, NCARB
There are many builders in the Northwest who build quality heavy timber construction. If you are interested in creating a mountain style home, we would enjoy the opportunity to work with you on the design, and can recommend some excellent Contractors. Hendricks Architecture specializes in the design of timber mountain style homes and cabins. While it is not the only type of architecture we design, most of the homes we’ve completed are in mountain resort areas throughout the West. If you are interested in a mountain home, or you have any other inquiries, please contact us.
Hendricks Architecture, mountain architects in Sandpoint, Idaho.
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